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Dahlias are one of those flowers that make you look forward to summer every year. Their bright, full blooms light up the garden, but once frost sets in, the real work begins—keeping those tubers safe until spring.
I still remember my first year growing dahlias; I left them in the ground, thinking they’d come back on their own. They didn’t. That’s when I learned how important proper winter storage really is.
If you want your dahlias to bloom again next year, storing the tubers correctly is key. Here’s a simple, step-by-step guide that’s worked for me year after year.
1. Wait for Frost to Hit
Don’t rush to dig them up. Dahlias should stay in the ground until the first hard frost blackens their leaves. This signals the plant that it’s time to rest.
Example: When you notice the foliage turn dark and limp, it’s your cue to start preparing for storage.
Tip: Mark your plants with garden tags before frost so you know which varieties are which later.
2. Cut Back the Stems
After frost, cut the stems down to about 4–6 inches above the ground. This makes it easier to handle the clumps and prevents rot from leftover foliage.
Example: I like to use clean, sharp pruners and avoid cutting too close to the crown.
Tip: Dispose of the old stems—don’t compost them if they show signs of disease.
3. Carefully Dig Up the Tubers
Gently loosen the soil around the plant with a garden fork, keeping a few inches of space so you don’t stab or bruise the tubers. Then, lift the entire clump out by the stem base.
Example: Hold the stem gently as support and shake off loose soil with your hands.
Tip: Damaged tubers don’t store well, so handle them like you would fresh eggs.
4. Label Each Variety
Once you start cleaning, it’s easy to forget which dahlia is which. Label them right after digging.
Example: Use waterproof tags tied to the stem or write on the tuber neck with a permanent marker.
Tip: Keeping them labeled saves time in spring when you’re ready to replant.
5. Clean Off the Soil
Use a soft brush or gently rinse off the remaining dirt. Avoid scrubbing too hard or soaking them for long—just enough to clean without damaging the skin.
Example: I prefer rinsing lightly with a garden hose and letting them air-dry for a few hours on newspaper.
Tip: Make sure they’re dry before the next step to prevent mold.
6. Inspect and Trim
Look closely for any signs of rot, softness, or breaks. Remove small, shriveled, or damaged tubers and trim away thin feeder roots.
Example: Think of this step as quality control—the better the tubers going into storage, the better they’ll come out.
Tip: Dip any cut ends in sulfur dust or cinnamon powder to discourage fungal growth.
7. Dry Thoroughly
Before storing, dahlias need to dry completely to toughen their skin and reduce moisture.
Example: Lay them in a single layer on newspaper or cardboard in a cool, dry place for 5–7 days.
Tip: A garage or basement with good air circulation works well. Avoid direct sunlight.
8. Pack in a Moisture-Control Medium
Store the dried tubers in boxes filled with dry peat moss, wood shavings, sawdust, or vermiculite. These materials keep moisture balanced—neither too dry nor too damp.
Example: Place a layer of peat moss, add the tubers so they’re not touching, then cover them completely.
Tip: Check once a month; if they feel too dry, lightly mist the medium, but don’t soak it.
9. Store in a Cool, Dark Place
Dahlia tubers store best between 40–50°F in a dark, frost-free area. Consistent temperature is key to keeping them firm and alive.
Example: Basements, insulated garages, or root cellars are perfect spots.
Tip: Avoid refrigerators—most are too cold and can cause the tubers to shrivel.
