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Hydrangeas are one of those plants that steal the spotlight every summer, but keeping them healthy through winter takes a little care and know-how. I’ve learned that how you treat your hydrangeas during the cold months often decides how full and colorful they’ll be next season.
Too much neglect, and those lovely blooms might not return as strong—or at all.
Here are twelve simple but important hydrangea winter care tips that’ll help your plants stay safe, healthy, and ready to burst back into bloom when spring arrives.
1. Know Your Hydrangea Type
Before you start, it’s important to know what kind of hydrangea you have. Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas bloom on old wood, while panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood. This affects how and when you prune and protect them.
Tip: Check your plant tag or past growth—old-wood varieties have woody stems that carry next year’s buds.
2. Stop Fertilizing in Late Summer
Feeding your hydrangeas too late in the season can encourage new growth that won’t survive the cold. By early fall, stop fertilizing to let the plant focus on strengthening its roots instead of growing new leaves.
Tip: Last feeding should be around August so stems have time to harden before frost.
3. Water Deeply Before the Ground Freezes
Hydrangeas need moisture to survive winter, especially in windy or dry climates. Give them a deep soak before the soil freezes—this helps the roots store enough water for the dormant months.
Tip: Use a slow trickle to reach deep roots and reduce the risk of winter drought stress.
4. Don’t Prune Too Early
Many gardeners make the mistake of cutting back hydrangeas in the fall. For most varieties that bloom on old wood, this means cutting off next year’s flower buds. Wait until spring to remove any dead or damaged stems.
Tip: If you must tidy them up, only remove spent blooms—leave the main stems until after frost season.
5. Mulch Generously
A thick layer of mulch acts like a blanket for your hydrangea’s roots. It keeps the soil temperature steady and prevents freeze-thaw cycles that can damage roots.
Tip: Apply 2–4 inches of shredded bark, straw, or leaves around the base, but don’t pile it against the stems.
6. Protect from Harsh Winds
Cold winter winds can dry out stems and buds. If your hydrangea is exposed, create a simple wind barrier using burlap or garden fabric around the plant.
Tip: Wrap loosely to allow airflow while shielding the plant from icy gusts.
7. Cover Tender Varieties
Mophead and bigleaf hydrangeas are more sensitive to frost. If you live in a colder area, protect them with a cage of chicken wire filled with leaves or straw once the ground starts freezing.
Tip: Avoid using plastic—it traps moisture and can cause rot.
8. Leave the Blooms On
Those dried hydrangea flowers may look past their prime, but they actually help protect the buds beneath from frost and snow. Leaving them through winter adds a touch of beauty too.
Tip: Wait until spring to trim them off, once the worst cold has passed.
9. Keep Soil Moist, Not Soggy
Even in winter, hydrangeas appreciate slightly moist soil. Completely dry soil can cause roots to shrink and die back. Check occasionally and water lightly during dry spells.
Tip: Morning watering is best to avoid frozen roots overnight.
10. Move Potted Hydrangeas to Shelter
Hydrangeas in pots are more vulnerable to freezing since roots are above ground. Move them against a house wall or into an unheated garage for protection.
Tip: If moving isn’t possible, wrap the pot with burlap and add mulch on top of the soil.
11. Don’t Panic if Leaves Drop Early
It’s normal for hydrangeas to look lifeless in winter. Dropping leaves and bare stems are part of dormancy—not a sign of death. The energy is stored in the roots for spring growth.
Tip: Resist the urge to dig or overwater during this stage; patience pays off.
12. Watch for Late Frosts in Spring
Once new buds appear, late frost can still harm them. Keep a lightweight frost cloth or old bedsheet handy to cover your hydrangeas overnight if a cold snap is forecast.
Tip: Remove covers in the morning so plants can get sunlight and air.
