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How to Grow Taro At Home: Step-by-Step Guide

Kasey Spencer
how to grow taro at home

Growing taro at home can be a fun and rewarding experience. This tropical plant is easy to care for and produces tasty, starchy tubers that are a staple in many cuisines. To grow taro, plant small tubers or sections of tuber in moist, well-draining soil about 6 inches deep and 15-24 inches apart.

A garden bed with rich, moist soil. Taro plants with heart-shaped leaves and long stems. Sunlight filtering through the leaves. Watering can nearby

I’ve found that taro thrives in warm, humid conditions with lots of water. It can be grown in the ground or large pots. The broad, heart-shaped leaves will sprout in a few weeks. As the plants grow, they’ll need regular watering to keep the soil damp.

In about 7-9 months, you can harvest your first taro corms. The plants will continue producing for several years with proper care. Growing taro at home lets you enjoy this nutritious and versatile crop fresh from your garden.

Getting Started with Taro

Taro is a tropical plant that’s easy to grow at home. I’ll share key tips on choosing the right variety, understanding its soil and climate needs, and picking the best spot to plant.

Choosing the Right Taro Variety

I recommend starting with the Colocasia esculenta variety, also known as “elephant ear” or “dasheen.” It’s the most common type and adapts well to home gardens. Eddoe is another good choice. It’s smaller and grows faster than other types.

Look for healthy corms (the edible root part) at garden stores or online. Make sure they’re firm and have no soft spots.

Understanding Soil and Climate Needs

Taro likes warm, humid weather. It grows best in temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). The plant needs rich, slightly acidic soil. A pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal. I mix compost into my garden soil to improve it. Taro needs lots of water. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Good drainage is important to prevent rot.

Selecting the Ideal Planting Location

I plant my taro in a spot that gets partial shade. Full sun can be too harsh, especially in hot climates. If you live in a cooler area, choose a sunny spot protected from wind. Taro can’t handle frost, so bring potted plants inside when it’s cold.

For in-ground planting, I space plants 2-3 feet apart. They grow big! In pots, use containers at least 12 inches deep and wide.

Planting and Caring for Taro

Taro plant in rich, moist soil. Sunlight filters through lush green leaves. Water droplets glisten on the broad, heart-shaped foliage

Taro is a rewarding crop to grow at home. I’ll walk you through the key steps to plant and care for your taro plants successfully.

Planting Taro Properly

I start by choosing a sunny spot with rich, moist soil. Taro thrives in warm climates with temperatures between 75-95°F. I prepare the soil by mixing in compost or well-rotted manure.

For planting, I use small taro corms or sections of larger corms. I plant them 6 inches deep and 15-24 inches apart in rows. If space is tight, I use large pots at least 12 inches deep.

The best time to plant taro is in spring after the last frost. I make sure the soil stays moist but not waterlogged. Taro plants can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide, so I give them plenty of room.

Nurturing Your Taro Plants

Taro needs lots of water. I keep the soil consistently moist, almost like a bog. In dry spells, I water deeply and often.

I feed my taro plants every 4–6 weeks with a balanced fertilizer. Taro loves nutrients, especially potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus. I also add compost or aged manure around the plants.

Mulching helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. I use organic mulch like straw or leaves. As taro grows, I remove any yellow or dying leaves to keep the plants neat and healthy.

Preventing and Managing Pests and Diseases

Taro is pretty tough, but it can face some problems. I keep an eye out for aphids and spider mites. If I spot them, I spray the plants with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap.

Downy mildew can be an issue in damp conditions. I avoid overhead watering and ensure good airflow between plants. If needed, I use a fungicide labeled for taro.

Weeds can compete with taro for nutrients. I pull them by hand or use mulch to prevent them. I also rotate my taro crop each year to reduce disease buildup in the soil.

Harvesting and Storing Taro

Harvesting and storing taro properly are key steps to enjoy this tasty root crop. I’ll explain when to harvest your taro and how to keep it fresh for later use.

Knowing When and How to Harvest Taro

I start checking my taro plants about 6–8 months after planting. The leaves turning yellow is a good sign they’re ready. I gently dig around the plant with a shovel to check the corm size. When they’re big enough, I carefully dig them up.

To harvest, I loosen the soil around the plant. Then I grab the base of the stem and pull up gently. The whole plant should come out with the corms attached. I shake off excess dirt and cut off the leaves, leaving a short stem.

Proper Storage Techniques for Taro

After harvest, I cure my taro corms. This helps them last longer. I put them in a warm, humid spot for 4–7 days. This lets cuts heal and toughen the skin.

I keep cured taro in a cool, dark place for short-term storage. They’ll last 1–2 weeks this way. I wrap each corm in newspaper for longer storage and put them in a cardboard box. In a cool, dry spot, they can last up to 3 months.

I can also freeze taro. I peel and slice the corms, blanch them for 3 minutes, then freeze in airtight bags. They’ll keep for up to 6 months this way.

Frequently Asked Questions

A lush garden with a variety of plants, including taro, arranged in neat rows. The sun is shining, and the soil looks rich and fertile

Growing taro at home can bring up some common questions. I’ll address key points about water growing, propagation, container planting, cold climate cultivation, using store-bought roots, and typical growth timeframes.

What is the best way to grow taro root in water?

To grow taro in water, I start with a healthy corm. I place it in a container filled with water, making sure the top third is above the surface. I change the water weekly and keep the container in a warm, sunny spot. Once roots and leaves form, I can transfer them to soil or keep them in water.

How can I propagate a taro plant successfully?

I propagate taro by dividing the main corm. I cut it into sections, each with at least one growing point. I let the cut surfaces dry for a day, then plant them in moist soil. I keep the soil damp and warm until new growth appears.

What are the steps for growing taro in containers?

For container growing, I choose a large pot at least 12 inches deep. I use rich, well-draining potting soil. I plant the corm 2-3 inches deep and water it well. Furthermore, I place the pot in partial shade and keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.

Can taro be cultivated in colder regions, and if so, how?

Taro can grow in colder areas with some care. I bring potted plants indoors when temperatures drop below 50°F. For in-ground plants, I add a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots. In very cold climates, I grow taro annually, harvesting before frost.

Is it possible to grow taro from roots purchased at a grocery store?

Yes, I can grow taro from store-bought roots. I look for corms with visible buds or eyes. I plant them in moist soil with the growing tip just above the surface. Not all store-bought taro will sprout, but many do with proper care.

What is the typical growth duration for a taro plant?

Taro typically takes 7 to 9 months to mature from planting to harvest. The exact time can vary based on growing conditions and the specific variety. I start checking for harvestable corms when the leaves begin to yellow and die back.

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