How to Grow Nasturtiums At Home: Step By Step Guide

Kasey Spencer
How to Grow Nasturtiums At Home

Growing nasturtiums at home is a fun and rewarding project. These colorful flowers are easy to grow and add a bright pop to any garden or indoor space. I love nasturtiums for their vibrant blooms and edible leaves and flowers.

To grow nasturtiums, plant the seeds in well-draining soil and give them plenty of sunlight. They do best in full sun but can tolerate some shade. I’ve successfully grown them in my garden and containers on my patio. For indoor growing, I place them near a sunny window.

There are many nasturtium varieties to choose from. I like the Alaska Mix for its compact size and pretty colors. Whether you plant them in the ground or pots, nasturtiums are low-maintenance and will bloom all summer long with minimal care. They’re perfect for new gardeners or anyone looking to add some cheer to their space.

Choosing the Right Nasturtium Variety

Nasturtium plant.
Image: Envato Elements

It’s key to picking the perfect nasturtium variety for your garden. I’ll guide you through the different types, colors, and sizes to help you make the best choice.

Types of Nasturtiums

There are three main types of nasturtiums: climbing, bush, and dwarf. Climbing nasturtiums are great for trellises and fences. They can reach up to 8 feet tall. Bush types grow in a compact mound, about 1-2 feet high. They’re perfect for borders and containers.

Dwarf nasturtiums are the smallest, growing only 6-12 inches tall. They work well in hanging baskets or as ground cover. The Alaska Mix is a popular dwarf variety with pretty variegated leaves.

Color Varieties and Their Significance

Nasturtiums come in a rainbow of colors. You’ll find reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, and even deep maroons. Some varieties, like Peach Melba, have bi-colored blooms.

The Jewel Mix offers a blend of bright, jewel-toned flowers. It’s great if you want a colorful mix. For a bold statement, try Empress of India with its dark leaves and bright red flowers.

Selecting for Your Space Requirement

Think about your garden space when choosing nasturtiums. For small areas or containers, I recommend dwarf or bush types like Whirlybird. This compact variety stays under 15 inches tall.

If you have a fence or trellis, climbing varieties are a good pick. They’ll add vertical interest to your garden. For larger beds, a mix of bush and climbing types can create a layered look.

Remember, all nasturtiums need full sun to bloom their best. In partial shade, they’ll grow but may not flower as much.

Preparing to Plant

Getting ready to grow nasturtiums involves a few key steps. I’ll cover the best soil conditions and seeding methods to set you up for success.

Optimal Soil Conditions

Nasturtiums thrive in well-draining soil. I mix sand into my garden beds to improve drainage. These flowers don’t need rich soil; they bloom better in poor soil. I avoid adding fertilizer unless my soil is very depleted.

Nasturtiums prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH levels. I test my soil and aim for a pH between 6.1 and 7.5. I add sulfur to lower pH or lime to raise it if needed.

Full sun is best for nasturtiums. I choose spots that get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. In partial shade, they’ll grow but won’t flower as much.

Seeding Indoors vs. Direct Sowing

I can start nasturtium seeds indoors or sow them directly outside. For an early start, I plant seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. I use biodegradable peat pots to avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting.

Direct sowing is easier. I wait until the soil warms up in spring. Then I plant seeds 1/2 inch deep, spacing them 10-12 inches apart. Germination usually takes 7-10 days.

For a long blooming season, I sow seeds every few weeks from spring through early summer. This gives me continuous flowers to enjoy.

Nasturtiums flower

Caring for Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are easy to care for but need the right conditions to thrive. I’ll cover the key aspects of watering, sunlight, and fertilization to help your nasturtiums flourish.

Watering Requirements

I water my nasturtiums regularly but avoid overwatering. They like moist soil, not soggy. I check the top inch of soil – if it’s dry, it’s time to water. During hot spells, I water more often. In cooler weather, I cut back.

Nasturtiums can handle short dry periods. If leaves droop, I give them a good drink. I water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. This helps prevent fungal issues.

For container plants, I water more often. Pots dry out faster than garden soil. I make sure containers have drainage holes to avoid waterlogged roots.

Understanding Sunlight Needs

Nasturtiums love sun. I plant mine in spots that get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Full sun brings out their best colors and most flowers.

In very hot climates, I give them some afternoon shade. This prevents wilting and scorching. Partial shade (3-6 hours of sun) works too, but plants may grow leggy with fewer blooms.

I’ve found that nasturtiums in too much shade produce lots of leaves but few flowers. If this happens, I move them to a sunnier spot if possible.

Fertilization and Its Effects

I go easy on fertilizer with nasturtiums. Too much makes them grow lots of leaves but few flowers. If my soil is poor, I mix in some compost before planting.

During the growing season, I use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer once a month. I dilute it to half-strength. This gives a boost without overdoing it.

In rich soil, nasturtiums often don’t need extra feeding. If plants look healthy and bloom well, I skip the fertilizer. Too much nitrogen can also make nasturtiums more tasty to pests.

Pest Management and Health

Nasturtiums are generally hardy plants but can face some pest and disease issues. I’ll cover the main problems to watch out for and how to handle them organically.

Dealing with Common Pests

Aphids are the most common pest for nasturtiums. I often find these tiny bugs clustered on new growth and flower buds. To get rid of them, I spray the plants with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap. For a natural solution, I mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 1 quart of water and spray it on the affected areas.

Caterpillars can also munch on nasturtium leaves. I pick them off by hand when I spot them. Slugs and snails may attack young plants. I use beer traps or copper tape around my garden beds to keep them away.

Whiteflies sometimes gather on leaf undersides. I use yellow sticky traps to catch them. For severe infestations, I prune heavily affected parts and dispose of them away from the garden.

Beneficial Insects and Companion Plants

Nasturtiums attract helpful insects to my garden. Bees and butterflies love their bright flowers, boosting pollination for nearby plants. Ladybugs and lacewings, which eat aphids, are also drawn to nasturtiums.

I plant nasturtiums near my vegetable beds as a trap crop. They lure pests away from my main crops. Cabbage butterflies prefer laying eggs on nasturtiums over cabbages or broccoli.

Good companion plants for nasturtiums include:

  • Tomatoes
  • Cucumbers
  • Zucchini
  • Radishes

These pairings help deter pests and can improve growth for both plants.

Detecting and Handling Diseases

Fungal diseases can affect nasturtiums in damp conditions. I watch for signs like:

  • Yellow or brown spots on leaves
  • Wilting despite moist soil
  • The white powdery coating on leaves

To prevent these issues, I space plants well for good airflow. I water at the base of plants, avoiding wet leaves. If I spot disease, I remove affected parts right away.

Bacterial leaf spot causes water-soaked lesions on leaves. I prevent this by avoiding overhead watering and not working with wet plants.

Viruses can cause stunted growth or leaf distortion. There’s no cure, so I remove and destroy any plants I suspect are infected to protect the rest of my garden.

Harvesting and Utilizing Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums offer more than just pretty flowers. I’ll show you how to collect seeds, use edible parts, and add these versatile plants to your cooking.

Collecting Seeds and Deadheading

I start collecting nasturtium seeds in late summer. The seeds are easy to spot – they’re large and bumpy. I pick them when they’re dry and store them in a cool, dark place for next year’s planting.

Deadheading is important too. I remove faded flowers regularly. This encourages more blooms and keeps the plant looking tidy. To deadhead, I simply pinch off the spent flowers at the stem. I make sure to do this before seeds form if I don’t want the plant to self-seed.

Edible Parts and Their Uses

Nasturtiums are entirely edible. I use the leaves, flowers, and even the seed pods in my cooking. The leaves have a peppery taste, similar to watercress. I add them to salads for a spicy kick. The flowers are milder and slightly sweet. They make beautiful garnishes for plates and add color to salads.

Unripe seed pods can be pickled to make “poor man’s capers”. They have a tangy, spicy flavor that’s great in sauces and relishes.

Edible Parts and Their Uses

Incorporating Nasturtiums in Cooking

I love using nasturtiums in my kitchen. Here are some of my favorite ways:

  • Salads: I toss leaves and petals into green salads for color and flavor.
  • Sandwiches: The leaves make a zesty addition to vegetarian sandwiches.
  • Butter: I mix chopped flowers into softened butter for a pretty spread.
  • Vinegar: Steeping the flowers in white vinegar creates a flavorful dressing base.
  • Pesto: I blend leaves with basil, garlic, and olive oil for a unique pesto.

Remember, nasturtiums have a peppery taste. I use them sparingly at first until I’m familiar with their strong flavor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Growing nasturtiums can raise some common questions. Here are the answers to help you successfully cultivate these colorful flowers at home.

What soil conditions are best for growing nasturtiums?

Nasturtiums thrive in well-draining soil with low to moderate fertility. I’ve found they do best in slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.1 and 7.5. Avoid rich soils, as they can lead to lots of leaves but fewer flowers.

How often should nasturtiums be watered?

I water my nasturtiums deeply once a week in most conditions. They prefer soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. During hot, dry spells, I increase watering to twice weekly. Too much water can cause root rot, so I’m careful not to overdo it.

Are nasturtiums perennials, and will they grow back after winter?

Nasturtiums are usually grown as annuals. In warm climates (zones 9-11), they can survive as short-lived perennials. In colder areas, I replant them each spring. They self-seed readily, so new plants often pop up on their own the following year.

What are some common issues when growing nasturtiums and how can they be addressed?

Aphids are a frequent pest on nasturtiums. I spray them off with water or use insecticidal soap for bad infestations. Powdery mildew can be an issue in humid conditions. I prevent this by spacing plants for good airflow and avoiding overhead watering.

How do you propagate nasturtiums from seedlings or cuttings?

I find nasturtiums easiest to grow from seeds sown directly in the garden. For a head start, I sow seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Cuttings can root in water, but they’re trickier and less reliable than growing from seed.

Which companion plants are beneficial to grow alongside nasturtiums, and which should be avoided?

I plant nasturtiums near tomatoes, cucumbers, and brassicas as they repel pests. They also work well with zucchini and melons. I avoid planting them near beans or peas, as nasturtiums can stunt their growth. Fennel is another plant I keep separate from nasturtiums.

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